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Saturday, March 31, 2012

Tallinn (Tallinna). A voyage to Tallinn, Estonia (Eesti), Europe

 
Although the smallest of the Baltic countries, Estonia (Eesti) makes its presence felt in the region with its lovely seaside towns, quaint country villages and verdant forests and marshlands, all of which set the scene for discovering many cultural and natural gems. Yet Estonia is also known for magnificent castles, pristine islands and a cosmopolitan capital amid medieval splendour.   It's no wonder Estonia is no longer Europe's best-kept secret. Tallinn, Estonia's crown jewel, boasts cobbled streets and rejuvenated 14th-century dwellings. Dozens of cafés and restaurants make for an atmospheric retreat after exploring historic churches and scenic ruins, galleries and boutiques. By night, stylish lounges and youthful nightclubs offer a glimpse of the city's sexier side. Some visitors have a hard time escaping Tallinn's undeniable allure, but outside the capital, the bucolic landscape hides numerous attractions. Lahemaa National Park in Northeastern Estonia has lush forests and beautiful coastal trails.  South of Estonia's cosmopolitan spiritual centre, Tartu, is the hilltop town of Otepää with its laidback atmosphere and lovely ski trails.




Handsome beach towns, spa resorts and medieval ruins lie scattered about the western shores of the country. Further west lies Estonia's biggest island, Saaremaa and on it the towns of Angla, Karja, Triigi & Tuhkana, where iconic windmills, 19th-century lighthouses, unspoilt beaches and yet more medieval ruins transport visitors to another time. Covering vast swaths of Estonia, forests, wooded meadows and under-appreciated bog form the backdrop to numerous activities. Hiking over wooded trails, horse riding along coastline and canoeing over flooded forests can link you to the ancient wilderness.

There's also great bird-watching, cross-country skiing in winter and swimming in crystal-clear lakes and rivers in summer. This all makes a nice prelude to a sauna, one of the national pastimes.
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Make it happen

Plans For a New Urban Garden

Plans
I just read about a new, exciting project called På Spåret ("on the tracks") with plans to turn abandoned train tracks into an urban garden. Located in the Skanstull area of the island of Södermalm, several blocks south from the Rival Hotel, these train tracks are a bit of a dead area today... overgrown vegetation with graffiti marked debris. The project has taken its inspiration from Berlin's Prinzessinnengarten and NYC's High Line, part of the new city trend of bringing green areas to urban sprawl. Stockholm is already quite green, with 95% of the population living less than 300 meters from a green area (helping the city get elected as Europe's first Green Capital in 2013).
Future look?

Stockholm City has given the go-ahead for the project and work will begin this spring; not sure when they plan to have it completed... but I will be sure to report on it here! The garden itself will be open for the public to try their hands at gardening, with only ecological produce being grown. There will also be an ecological gardening school, store and café with large outdoor seating area. Furthermore, there will be a daily outdoor farmers market that will expand in size on the weekends. Other plans include cultural events like concerts, gardening seminars and outdoor movie screenings. Keep an eye on their website (linked above, only in Swedish so far) and this blog for further updates.
Thursday, March 29, 2012

Lahti (Lahden). A voyage to Lahti, Finland (Suomi) - Europe


One of Finland's major winter-sports centres, Lahti is a modern town about 100km north of Helsinki.
 It's a good place to go if you're interested in skiing, with a good museum on the sport, alongside the city's frighteningly high ski jumps.

 Lahti has hosted several world championships, most recently in 2001.

Founded in 1905, the city isn't hugely interesting in other respects, and lacks anything that could be called an 'old town'.




Most of the
downtown area, in fact, consists of a series of linked shopping centres. The 10, 000 Karelian refugees who arrived after WWII have contributed their entrepreneurial spirit to what the locals call the 'Business City'. Lahti does make a good base for visiting nearby attractions.

Its location by Vesijärvi (which is connected to Lake Päijänne) makes it the obvious place to start a ferry trip to Jyväskylä.

One of the largest lakes in Finland, Päijänne provides Helsinki with tap water.
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Tourist Season is Gearing Up!

Just in time for the Easter Holidays... three sure signs that the tourist season will soon be upon us! The first sign comes tomorrow (March 30th) when the Strömma boat tour to Drottningholm Palace starts up for the season. The boat tours will be operating on Fridays to Sundays until April 27th, when they start operating on a daily basis. Drottningholm, the home of the Swedish king & queen, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a great place to visit. The boat trip is half the fun and a wonderful way to see Stockholm.
Drottningholm. Photo by Gomer Swahn
The second sign... the start of the City Bike season (April 1st). A great and inexpensive way to see Stockholm! I will be writing more about this next week, but in the meantime you can check what I wrote last year. The Rival Hotel will be selling the card again this year (only to our hotel guests).
City Bikes

The third sign? Restaurants, bars and cafés all over Stockholm are opening up their outdoor seating areas. Apparently more restaurants than ever have applied for licenses to have outdoor seating this year! The Rival Hotel will be opening the Bistro balcony and Café outdoor seating on April 2nd... come snow, rain or sunshine! See you there!
Café Rival



Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Indonesia. A voyage to Indonesia, Asia - Jakarta, Surabaya, Bandung, Depok, Medan... ( Bali, Java, Kalimantan, Sumatra, Papua... )



Adventure looms large in this vast and steamy archipelago, where the best of Southeast Asia’s spicy melange simmers tantalisingly. Heady scents, vivid colours, dramatic vistas and diverse cultures spin and multiply to the point of exhaustion, their potent brew leaving your senses reeling.   Rippling across the equator for nearly 5000km, Indonesia encompasses more than 17,000 islands, two-thirds of which are inhabited and richly layered with character. On Sulawesi, the elaborate funeral ceremonies and timeless traditions of Tana Toraja are light years from the surfing culture of Lombok.
But so too are the mighty saddle- backed Batak mansions of Danua Toba and the volcanic lakes of Sumatra from the mummies and deeply etched gorges of Papua’s Baliem Valley.





The resorts and restaurants of Bali pamper precocious style cats, while at the same moment threadbare backpackers are adopted by homestays in Kalimantan. Indonesia’s cities are in a constant state of urban evolution, where dense populations, technology and construction live in hectic symbiosis. But most of the archipelago’s territory remains unexplored, concealing a wealth of cultures and a myriad of landscapes.
Oceanic rice fields and ancient sultanates in Java are humbled by haunting volcanic cones. Maluku’s alabaster beaches and desert islands remain pristine while the tourist trail heads elsewhere. The jungles of Sumatra, Kalimantan and Papua are zoological wonders, revealing impish monkeys, stoic sun bears, leopards, orang-utans and remarkable marsupials. And then there are the micromoments, equally exquisite but entirely unexpected; impromptu
English lessons with school children, instant friendships in crammed bemos, lending an ear to your becak rider…
In Indonesia there is plenty of cause to pause, except when dodging hurtling traffic – but that’s all part of the adventure.Show in Lonely Planet
Ready to go? These recommended partners make it easy:


Easter in Stockholm (2012)

Photo: Marie Andersson, Skansen
(Edit: This is from 2012, click here for more updated info & links for 2013) The Easter Holidays (Påsk) come a little earlier in the calendar this year. As a visitor to Stockholm, here are some practical things to know: both Friday April 6th (Good Friday - Långfredag) and Monday April 9th (Annandag Påsk) are bank holidays in Sweden, which means that banks, smaller shops & boutiques as well as liquor stores (Systembolaget) will be closed. Easter Sunday (Påsk) is, of course, a holiday. But, besides the above mentioned, most museums, department stores, restaurants and shopping centers are open as usual... with maybe shorter opening hours certain days. Thursday April 5th (Skärtorsdag) is a special day. While not a holiday, many office workers use it as a half-day in anticipation of their long weekend. The only main museums I can find that have unusual opening hours during the Easter Holidays are Historiska (history museum) which is closed on Friday and Saturday and Livrustkammaren (the royal armoury) which is closed on Friday. Be aware that several museums are closed on Mondays during the low season. The sightseeing tours will run as normal.

The best place to experience a traditional Swedish Easter is Skansen on the island of Djurgården. There will be music in Seglora church, Easter activities for children as well as an Easter Market (11am to 4pm Thursday-Monday) where you can buy traditional arts & crafts, foods and Easter decorations. See their whole program here. It is easy to get to Skansen from the Rival Hotel... regular ferries to Djurgården from Slussen (10 minute walk from the hotel, ferry ride is also 10 minutes). Speaking of which,  the Rival Hotel has a great Easter deal if you haven't made any arrangements yet!
Happy Easter!