Museums in Stockholm- Focusing on History!

King Charles XII

I write often about the different art museums in Stockholm, mainly because they generally have temporary exhibitions... changing from season to season. Museums with historical content, on the other hand, have mostly permanent exhibitions with few temporary exhibitions. In other words, after I have visited one of these museums and blogged about, there seldom is a reason to reblog... unless the museum does a major change. So, I thought I would put together a list of the top history museums in Stockholm to refresh everyone's memory and to show the wide range of historical themed museums.

Drottningholm Palace.

• Historiska Museet (Swedish History Museum)- a general look at Swedish history from the Stone Age to more recent history. A permanent exhibit on Swedish Vikings as well as the Gold Room (collection of Viking gold & silver finds).
• Medeltidsmuseum (Museum of Medieval Stockholm)- as the name suggests, this museum looks at life in Stockholm during the medieval era and how the city looked and grew during this time (Stockholm was first mentioned in texts during this period. 1252 to be exact).
• Stadsmuseet (Stockholm City Museum)- a museum dedicated to Stockholm: the architecture, life, art and... history! They also organize themed city walks, like the Millennium Trilogy and ABBA. 
• Vasamuseet (The Vasa Museum)- museum built around the salvaged wreck of the royal warship Vasa (sank 1628). Besides the ship, an extensive look at Stockholm and Sweden during the 1600's as well as life of sailors/soldiers onboard a warship. Recent blog article. 
• Armémuseum (Army Museum)- a look at Swedish history from a military perspective. Sweden's warlike past comes as a surprise for many visitors! Recent blog article. 
• Sjöhistoriska Museet (Maritime Museum)- a look at naval and maritime history... everything from Swedish naval history to commerce to sailor tattoos. 
• Judiska Museet (Jewish Museum)- museum on Jewish culture in Sweden and the history of the Swedish Jews. Interesting temporary exhibits from time to time...
• Skansen- park, zoo and open air museum that looks at historic Swedish traditions as well as rural culture. Farm houses, manors and churches have been transported to Skansen from counties all over Sweden. 
• Birka- the main town in Sweden during the Viking Age. Nothing is left of the settlement today, instead you have a museum there as well as a walking tour which describes the town's history as well as points out the archeological excavations. Open only during the summer and requires a full day with a boat trip. Blog article.
• Livrustkammaren (The Royal Armoury)- a collection of the armour, clothes and carriages belonging to the kings & queens of Sweden. The museum often has temporary exhibitions regarding Swedish royal history. A part of the Royal Palace.
• Skattkammaren (The Treasury)- The Swedish royal family's collection of crowns, swords, scepters and orbs. A part of the Royal Palace.
• Tre Kronor- A museum dedicated to the original royal castle in Stockholm, Tre Kronor, which burned down in 1697. A part of the Royal Palace.

At the Army Museum.

The Royal Palace (Kungliga Slottet) itself is definitely worth a visit for history buffs. Not only does it contain the three last named museums (listed above), the Royal Apartments are also open to visitors. While this is the main palace, there are several other castles and palaces in the Stockholm region that are open for visitors... Drottningholm Palace, Gripsholm Castle and Skokloster Castle are the most popular.  

Part of the Royal Apartments... Gustav III's Bedchamber, photo by Alexis Daflos, Kungliga Hovstaterna

Certain historical Swedes are important enough to get museums dedicated to themselves. Learn more about inventor/philanthropist Alfred Nobel at the Nobelmuseet (Nobel Museum) and author/playwright August Strindberg at the Strindbergsmuseet (the Strindberg Museum). 

Click here for more Viking themed activities in Stockholm and nearby areas...

You can always experience living history
by wandering the streets of Gamla Stan.

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The Vasa Museum

The prow of the Vasa.

Working as a Concierge, I get asked one question over and over again... "What should we not miss when we are in Stockholm?". While there are many things I think people visiting Stockholm should definitely see (like Gamla Stan, Fotografiska, Djurgården, the Archipelago, Östermalms Saluhall and more), my #1 answer to that question is The Vasa Museum. I did write about the museum way back in 2013 when I first started this blog, but it is time for an update.

Entrance to the museum with tell tale masts sticking up through the roof.

The museum is built around the royal warship Vasa, which sank in 1628 while leaving Stockholm harbour on her maiden voyage. Sometimes I notice guests' eyes glazing over as I explain this... often with the comment "Oh, we aren't interested in boats". But this really is much more than just a boat. To start off with, the Vasa lay on the bottom of Stockholm harbour for 333 years, remaining amazingly intact and in surprisingly good condition, before being salvaged in 1961. Its condition is mainly due to the fact that the cold, brackish water of the Baltic kept away shipworms which usually destroy wooden ships in warmer, saltier seas. A jaw dropping 95% of what you see today is the original ship.

Model depicting how the Vasa looked when launched.

It is magnificently huge! Walking in to the museum, the ship (69 meters long and 52 meters high) will take your breath away. The condition of the ship also means that a lot of the detailed wood/artwork can still be viewed and enjoyed. But what really makes this museum special, in my opinion, is how informative and well planned out it is.

Ornamental detail.

Visitors can view the ship, top to bottom, from the museum's 7 floors. There are several informative exhibitions spread out on the different floors... like what the ornaments and decorations symbolized, what life on board was like, how the ship was salvaged and how the ship functioned in a naval battle. One of my favorite exhibitions there is "Face to Face". Several skeletons were found on or near the ship and through modern forensic science we are able to know quite a lot about the people who sailed on the Vasa (appearance, diet, sickness and general lifestyle).

Size perspective... see the people in the bottom left-hand corner?

The museum was recently expanded as it was originally built to take 600,000 visitors a year and now sees more than 1.2 million visitors a year! Part of this expansion is a new exhibition room on the ground floor. I saw it now for the first time when I took my visiting father to the museum last week. Entitled "Meanwhile", this high-tech, interactive exhibition takes a look at what else was happening in the world during the time of the Vasa (early 1600's). Did you know that Barbary pirates from Morocco abducted about 400 people from Iceland in two different raids in 1627? I found it very interesting and it did help to put the Vasa sinking into an historic perspective.

Part of the new exhibition "Meanwhile".

So... don't miss this amazing and very unique museum when visiting Stockholm! Located on the island of Djurgården, it is easy to get to from the Rival Hotel. There are regular ferries (Djurgård ferry) going between nearby Slussen and Djurgården and the trip just takes 10 minutes. Open 7 days a week, entrance is 130 SEK and free for children up to the age of 18 and for holders of the Stockholm Card.

Vasa's stern.

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Army Museum - Armémuseum

Museum entrance.

Continuing with my New Year's resolution to visit museums in Stockholm that I have never been to... I took my visiting father to the Army Museum (Armémuseum) last week. Stockholm has many great history themed museums, including Vasa, Historiska, Skansen, Medieval Stockholm as well as the museums in the Royal Palace. The Army Museum concentrates on the history of Sweden, mainly from the 1500's onwards, from a military perspective. I must say that I was quite impressed with the museum and definitely recommend it for anyone interested in history and/or military.

Life-size diorama showing infantry.

Military, warfare and conflict are probably not the first things that come to mind for the majority of visitors when they think of Sweden. These days Sweden has a international reputation of neutrality, mainly due to the fact the Sweden managed to stay out of both World Wars and was neither a part of the Warsaw Pact or NATO during the Cold War. In fact, Swedish armies have not taken part in any wars, excluding peace keeping missions, since the Napoleonic wars of the early 1800's. However, between 1500 and 1800, Sweden was one of the most militaristic nations in the world and was almost constantly at war with her neighbours... Denmark, Russia, Poland and various Germanic states. Many Swedish rulers were famed warrior kings. In fact, Charles XII spent 14 years (basically his entire adult life) on military campaigns on foreign soil.

Minitures showing Swedish army formation during the Thirty Year's War

But the Army Museum does also look at the past 200 years of peace and the Swedish Army's participation in UN led peacekeeping missions in places like Cyprus, The Congo, Afghanistan and Iraq. And, if you are wondering what Swedish Marines are up to these days... check this video! The museum does a great job of giving visitors a feel for how these wars (and peace) have shaped Swedish culture and life in those times through the use of life size dioramas, charts, maps, collections of war booty/trophies... almost all with excellent explanations in English.

Swedish UN vehicle

There is also a special exhibit on Raoul Wallenberg, who was a Swedish diplomat during World War II and responsible for saving almost 100,000 Jews in Nazi held Hungary before being captured himself by the invading Soviert Army. He has been missing since then. The exhibit looks at how he saved so many people and the different theories on what happened to him after his capture. Sweden recently celebrated the 100th anniversary of Wallenberg's birth. More info on Wallenberg monuments in Stockholm.

Diorama in Wallenberg exhibition

The museum is quite large (3 floors) and housed in a beautiful building which used to be Stockholm's armoury. It is located in the Östermalm district and very easy to get to from the Rival Hotel... just four stations on the subway (red line) to Östermalmstorg station. Entrance is 80 SEK for adults, 50 for seniors and free for children under 19 and holders of the Stockholm Card. Closed on Mondays!

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Museum of Mediterranean and Near Eastern Antiquities

Stockholm, with over 85 museums, has one of the world's highest museum per capita ratios. From modern art to postage stamps and from Viking history to alcoholic spirits... there really is a museum for every interest. You would think that I must have already visited all 85+ museums, but there are still many of the smaller museums that I haven't been to yet. Bad Concierge! So, as my New Year's resolution, I will be attempting to visit more of these museums in Stockholm  (and then writing about them here).

First up is Medelhavsmuseet (Museum of Mediterranean and Near Eastern Antiquities) which is part of the group National Museums of World Culture in Sweden, which also includes the Museum of Far Eastern Antiquities and Museum of Ethnography among others. This museum, as the name suggests, is dedicated to the ancient history of the cultures surrounding the Mediterranean and in the Middle East... Greek, Roman, Estrucean, Phoenician, Egyptian, Assyrian and more. Obviously, this museum doesn't have the scope or size of similar, larger museums in Rome, Cairo, Athens or even London (British Museum). But it is definitely worth a visit, especially if you are interested in this subject matter and have gotten your fill of Vikings, Vasa and ABBA.

The museum has a small, permanent collection of Ancient Greek and Roman art... including some impressive busts and painted amphorae as well as gold jewelry. I have been to many museums dedicated to Ancient Greece and Rome and I don't ever think I have seen such a well preserved golden laurel wreath before.

This season's exhibition is dedicated to the island of Cyprus, which was quite a crossroad for many cultures. What makes this exhibition especially interesting, in my opinion, is its connection with Sweden... almost all of the artifacts on display come from Swedish Cyprus Expedition, which took place in the late 1920's. The expedition excavated at over 20 locations across the island and made some terrific discoveries. This collection is actually the largest one of its kind outside of Cyprus.

The museum's exhibition on Ancient Egypt is closed during the winter for renovations & rehanging and will open in the spring, bigger and better than before. Guess I will have to revisit then! As this is a smaller museum, the entrance cost is less than at other museums (only 60 SEK for adults, free with the Stockholm Card). It is centrally located in the downtown area near the Royal Opera House. To get there from the Rival Hotel, it is either a 25 minute stroll through Gamla Stan or else an easy 10 minute bus ride.

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New Fall Exhibition at the National Museum

I stopped by the National Museum today to see their new exhibition "Staging Power". Being the history buff that I am... I thoroughly enjoyed it! That being said, there is a lot there for art lovers as well. The exhibition looks at "the art of ruling through art" in the Napoleonic Era. It concentrates on three very similar (at the same time different) rulers of the era... Napoleon, Czar Alexander I of Russia and Carl-Johan of Sweden. Besides the grand portraits of the rulers and their families, the exhibition contains many great artifacts from the rulers: uniforms, clothes, jewellery, letters, furniture, weapons, etc; You get to see how the ruling elite used art to convey power and how constant war formed this ideal. Some artifacts were especially interesting to see... Napoleon's uniform with famous bicorne hat for example, as well as one of the gold bay leaves from his coronation wreath.

This exhibition was formed through cooperation between the National Museum and the Hermitage in St Petersburg, Russia (where the exhibition will be next year). So many of the objects are from the Hermitage as well as on loan from museums all over Europe including France, Sweden, the UK and Poland. Sweden's king has also graciously loaned the exhibition many artifacts from his personal collection.

The exhibtion is on display until the 23rd of January. The museum is closed on Mondays, otherwise it opens at 11am and closes at 5pm, except on Tues & Thurs when it closes at 8pm. Entrance costs 120 SEK, 100 SEK for students and seniors. Youths under 19 get in for free as well as people with the Stockholm Card. To find out about other exhibitions at the National Museum, check their website (linked above) or read my last blog entry about the museum. The museum is located on Blasieholmen - within walking distance from the Rival Hotel, otherwise the closest subway station is Kungstädgården (blue line).

Click here for information about other art exhibitions going on in Stockholm this autumn, and here for info about other museums in the city.

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Stockholm Trivia

Many people around the world have heard of Raoul Wallenberg... but not everyone knows that he was born and raised in Stockholm. A Swedish humanitarian and diplomat, he saved tens of thousands of Jews in Hungary during World War II by issuing them protective passports and housing them in 32 different buildings in Budapest established as Swedish territory. He even convinced the Nazis not to go ahead with their plan of a death march of the remaining Jews in Budapest as the Soviet Army neared the city. Sadly, Wallenberg was arrested by the Soviets and sent back to the USSR. He was never seen again and is widely believed to have been either executed or died while in Soviet prison. There is a multitude of memorials to Raoul Wallenberg all over the world and Stockholm has, of course, honoured her son as well. There are two memorials/monuments located on Roul Wallenberg Square next to Berzelii Park. One monument is abstract, showing figures rising from the ground. The other is a granite globe that is connected to the Great Synagogue of Stockholm with a symbolic railway track. The closest subway station is Kungsträdgården (blue line).

The Wallenberg family is one of the most powerful families in Sweden. In 1990 it was estimated that the Wallenbergs indirectly controlled 1/3 of the Swedish GNP. There is actually a popular Swedish dish named after Raoul's relative called a Wallenbergare. If you would like to try this, then you don't have to travel farther than Rival's own Bistro where they make one of Stockholm's most delicious Wallenbergare!
Click here for more Stockholm trivia.

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Terracotta Warriors, part 2

I have already mentioned this exhibition, but I felt that I should come back with a report after actually viewing the Terracotta Warriors from the Qin Dynasty. They are on display at the Museum of Far Eastern Antiquities, located on the island of Skeppsholmen. I was very impressed with the whole exhibition... it is not housed in the museum proper, but in subterranean halls (Bergsrummet) under the museum. In the first hall you have ten of the warriors as well as other artifacts from the Qin Dynasty. In the other hall you have smaller "tomb warriors" and a bunch of artifacts, all from the Han Dynasty. There is an abundance of information, both about the artifacts and the history of China, placed along the walls of the halls and they are both in Swedish and English.
The price of admission (150 SEK, free for 18 & under) is a little more expensive than most museum visits, but I definitely think that it is worth it... considering the cost of bringing the artifacts from China (this isn't a wandering exhibition) and the fact that the admission costs gets you into the museum proper as well. Tickets can be purchased at the door. You can't miss it, right as you cross the bridge to Skeppsholmen you'll see it on your left. Because of the large interest, they are selling time specific tickets (11:00 to 12:00, 12:00 to 13:00, etc;). I would suggest avoiding weekends and go on a weekday when Swedes are at work to avoid the crowds.
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Click here for other museum tips & recommendations!
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African Masterpieces Exhibit at Skeppsholmen Caverns

I made an announcement earlier about the upcoming exhibition "African Masterpieces". But I recently attended a press showing of the exhibit, so I thought that I would write a new entry with my thoughts of the exhibition along with some pictures.

First of all, I am a fan of the venue... the Caverns (Bergrummet) on the island of Skeppsholmen. These man-made caverns once housed the Swedish naval command during WWII and are the perfect venue for these large world culture exhibitions as they add a sense of mystery and magic you don't get in a normal museum venue. This is the third such exhibition held here, following the Terracotta Warriors of X'ian and Inca Gold.

"African Masterpieces" is made up of stone, metal and terracotta sculptures (100+ pieces on display) by the people of Ife, located in modern-day Nigeria. These sculptures date back between the 12th and 16th centuries and give a wonderful view on the culture of the people of Ife... their religion, daily life and worldview. The sculptures are beautiful and the craftsmanship is amazing. Our guide pointed out that many people incorrectly assume that historic works of art in Africa consist of only wooden objects. I also found the exhibit fascinating as we are generally taught so little about African history and culture, as opposed to, say, European and Asian history. Plenty of information is provided in the exhibit (in Swedish & English), otherwise 45 minute long guided tours are available.

The exhibition opens tomorrow (September 7th) and runs until February 23rd, 2014. The Caverns are open every day during this period from 10am to 8pm. Entrance costs 150 SEK for adults and free for youth/children under the age of 19. Tickets can be purchased either online in advance or at the entrance. I would recommend pre-purchasing the tickets if you are planning on seeing the exhibit during peak hours (evenings & weekends), otherwise you should be fine purchasing tickets at the door. It is relatively easy to get to the Caverns from the Rival Hotel... either a beautiful 25 minute walk through Gamla Stan (old town) or else you can take the Djurgårds Ferry (just make sure you let them know on the ferry that you want to get off at Skeppsholmen).

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African Masterpieces Coming Soon!

Copyright: © National Commission for Museums and Monuments, Nigeria. Photo courtesy Museum for African Art/Fundación Botín. (Photo: Karin L. Willis)

I'm excited! Sad to see summer ending... but there is a great, unique exhibition coming to Stockholm this autumn & winter. "African Masterpieces" (Dynasty and Divinity: Ife Art in Ancient Nigeria) will be exhibited in the Skeppsholmen Caverns starting on September 7th and ending of February 23rd, 2014. It is an exhibition that looks at the Ife civilization of Nigeria (circa 1100-1500 A.D.) through their art. Over 100 sculptures in stone, metal and terracotta will be on display giving visitors a look at their religion, life and rituals.

Line to an earlier exhibition at the Caverns
Photo: Karl Zetterström, Världskulturmuseerna

This is the third exhibition to be held in the Skeppholmen Caverns... following the popular Terrocotta Army and Inca Gold exhibitions. The Caverns are located on the island of Skeppsholmen, "under" the Museum of Far East Asian Antiquities (Östasiatiskamuseet) and have proven to be a great place to exhibit cultural treasures of the world. The caves and tunnels were used by the Swedish military as bunkers during World War II and later as part of the naval headquarters. The exhibition will be open daily between 10am and 8pm and admission is 150 SEK for adults and free for children under 19. Tickets can be prepurchased on their website (through Ticnet). This might be good idea if you are planning on going on a weekend or evening (peak times), though I think you should be safe daytime on a weekend. If you are staying at the Rival Hotel, contact me directly if you need help or further information.

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Day Trip - Birka (Viking Town)

Rounding out my weekend as tour guide for my friend visiting from Wales... we took a trip to Birka for the day. Birka is considered to be Sweden's first town and was active (750-960 A.D.) in the Viking Age with a population of about 700 people at its height (around 3,000 graves have been found). Birka was an important trading center as seen by grave items found originating in the Middle-East and mainland Europe. Archaeologists don't know exactly why the town was abandoned, but, at about the same time, nearby Sigtuna rose in importance. Birka is located on the island of Björkö in lake Mälaren, about an hour and 45 minute boat ride inland from Stockholm. During the Viking Age the water level was much higher and Birka was directly connected to the Baltic Sea.

Today the island and archaeological site are on UNESCO's World Heritage list. If you go to Birka expecting to see the fabulous ruins of an ancient city like Machu Pichu, you will be disappointed. Birka was built mainly of wood and all that is left are the grave mounds and black earth and it takes a little imagination to envision what the town once looked like. Fortunately visitors are helped first by visiting the on-site museum where they have miniature replicas of what the town may have looked like as well as eager and knowledgable tour guides who take you through the grave fields and the site of where the town once stood. A recent addition to the site is a life size replica of part of the town, complete with working Vikings. It is made up of 4 or 5 dwellings, gardens and boats. The Vikings go about their business doing their daily chores including smithy work. One week in July they set up a Viking market as well. In my opinion it is the tour guides who make the trip extra special. They are all archaeology students and you can feel their passion for their work. There are hour long tours in both Swedish and English as well as a later tour designed for children. Speaking of which, this is a great trip to take children on! I sent a family of four from Germany there last week and it was a big hit. Otherwise I recommend this day trip for nature and history lovers alike...

Strömma is the company that runs the tours. They leave daily (mid May to mid September) from City Hall at 9:30am and you are back in town at 5pm (this gives you almost 4 hours on the island- enough time to take the tour, visit the museum and have lunch). There is a cafe on board the boat as well as a restaurant on the island. The cost of the tour is 295 SEK, half off for children between 6 and 11. Included in the price is the boat trips (with on board guide), museum entrance and guided tour of the island.

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The Vasa Museum

This weekend I played tour guide to a friend visiting from Wales. As it was her first time in Stockholm, I had to take her to the Vasa Museum. There is a good reason why this is the top tourist draw in the city... not only is the ship impressive to see, the museum built around the ship is manificent as well.

The Vasa was a Swedish warship built at a time when Sweden, under Gustav II Adolf, was growing in power and taking her place on the world stage. Sweden was at war with Poland and was on the brink of being dragged into the Thirty Years War. A strong navy was important and the grand and ornate Vasa was to be its centerpiece. Unfortunately, she was too grand and ornate... top-heavy and unstable she sank minutes after setting sail in 1628 on her maiden voyage. She was found again in Stockholm harbour in the 1950's. The cold brackish water of the Baltic meant that shipworm hadn't destroyed her and she was nearly perfectly preserved. The ship was raised and the museum built around her, opening for the public in 1990 and quickly becoming the most visited museum in Scandinavia.

I really think that they have done a remarkable job with the museum. It is made up of several floors, all looking on to the immense ship. On each floor you learn about how the sailors lived on board, how the ship was constructed, what the ornamation meant symbolically, how the ship was found and raised, and more. There are loads of artifacts found with the ship on display as well. Whenever a guest tells me that they have one day in Stockholm and ask what they shouldn't miss... I always say the Vasa Museum.

The museum is located on the island of Djurgården and is a quick ferry ride from Slussen, or else you can take bus 47 from Norrmalmstorg. Entrance costs 110 SEK, 80 for students and free for children under 19. Entrance is free with the Stockholm Card. During the summer the museum is open daily from 8:30am to 6pm, otherwise it is open daily from 10am to 5pm (until 8pm on Wednesdays).

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The Terracotta Army to Stockholm

Do you dream about one day travelling to China to see the famous Terrcotta Warriors from the X'ian province? Now you don't have to... they are coming to Stockholm this Fall! Well, not all of them but 10 warriors and plenty of other goodies (concentrating on the Qin and Han Dynasties) on loan from 11 museums in China. Today I was invited by the Museum of Far Eastern Antiquities (Östasiatiska Museet) for an information meeting as well as a viewing of where the exhibition will be shown. You see, the exhibition will not be taking place in the museum proper but under it... in a fabulous 4,800 sq meter tunnel system dug directly in the hill (Bergrummet). These caverns were first excavated during the beginning of World War II to house the Naval Command in case of attack. This is the first time the tunnels will be open to the public and are the perfect subterranean stage to show off the Warriors!

This is not a wandering exhibition, but a unique showing coming only to Stockholm. The exhibition will be open every day, 10am to 8pm, from August 28th to January 16th. Tickets will cost 150 SEK (includes entrance to the museum proper as well) and children under 19 go in for free. They are expecting a lot of public interest and tickets may be purchased in advance at their website (linked above). The museum is located on the island of Skeppsholmen in central Stockholm. The nearest subway is Kungsträdgården (blue line).

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Stockholm Trivia

How old is Stockholm? No one knows the exact date of the city's founding but the city is at least 760 years old. The first time the city is mentioned in historical records is 1252 A.D. in letters written by Birger Jarl and King Valdemar. Birger Jarl is traditionally considered to be the founder of Stockholm. There are many legends regarding why and how Stockholm came into existence... but the obvious reason is her strategic location on the border between Lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea.
Tip: There is a good exhibition on Birger Jarl at the Museum of Medieval Stockholm going on until January 10th, 2011.

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