
This gritty, grimy and gloriously real city – France’s oldest, and largest after Paris – isn’t gentrified like its Provençal counterparts. But its rough-and-tumble edginess, wailing sirens and litter-swirled streets, and its coastal corniches, chicaning around rocky inlets, coves and sun-baked beaches, are chock-a-block with treasures.
Pulsing to a sultry southern European tempo, Marseille also beats to the drum of neighbouring North Africa.


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